Jeju was back-breaking, sun-baking, tear-making, and frust-rating. And Worth It. Lugging a 50 lb trailer behind my bike for five days though scorching sun, torrential typhoons, up and down hills and valleys, over small, smooth coastal roads next to aquamarine waters and blackest volcanic rocks, through farms and cities, on designated bike paths and highway shoulders, across bridges and next to piers, with one sore ass, sore knees, and with a nigh near 3rd degree sunburn, was the most physically challenging thing I've ever done. Six months ago I was so out of shape that it would have been impossible. I've never been so proud of myself for finishing anything.
Another lesson: everywhere you go, there's at least one person who is willing to help you in a small but useful way. In Jeju, this help can in the form of an adjoshi (uncle) who oiled our bikes for us after the typhoon.
Yet another lesson: It's possible to sleep just about anywhere in this country for free, provided you bring a tent. No one will say anything.
Next thing: Trekking in Nepal.
